"Everything, from the bottle design to the name and the ideas for the commercials -- that's me. When I commit to something, I do it 100 percent, and I've never had [creative control over a fragrance] until this project. I learned a lot of great things from the past -- but I always asked myself, 'If I could have my own scent, what would it be?' I wasn't worried about deadlines. It could have taken me three, four, however many years -- this was my first fragrance, and I wanted to make sure that it was something I would love forever." [WWD]
After discovering several celebrity fragrances that attempted to answer this nosy-parker question in a similar way and with their own means, I can say that I am pretty sure Heat reflects Beyoncé's preferences....
Why? Because Heat, like a few other celebrity fragrances, is what I would call a Celebrity-Fragrance-Wardrobe composition. It draws inspiration from perfumes beloved by the celebrity, collapsing them together and bringing to the world a newborn scent with an old soul or several old souls; you know how some babies seem to have the souls of centuries-old wise men or women? This is it. The Celebrity-Fragrance-Wardrobe is new but it's old at the same time, although in the case of Beyoncé, it seems her taste goes in the direction of fairly recent launches. http://lasmuestrasenelperfumedelafragance.blogspot.com/
Notes: red vanilla orchid, magnolia, neroli and blush peach/honeysuckle nectar, almond macaroon and crème de musk/giant sequoia milkwood, tonka bean and amber.
Heat opens on a sparkling and shiny fruity-aldehydic impression followed by tart berries and creamy woods. The fruits in this concoction are downright sticky-sweet, but in a good way. It must be at the minimum coming from the "honeysuckle nectar" and the "macaroon" notes. It does not really feel gourmand. The magnolia, as usual, brings sophistication and softness to the mix.
To give you an idea of the initial fruity accord, which is striking, I would say that it seems to have been drawn out with a Stabilo fluorescent marker, so glaring it is. The fruits here make me think of artificial-smelling hip, geeky candies at first; it smells of a vision of yellow banana candy filled with raspberry and litchi jam. It is jammy, like in jars of salty plum jam heating in the sun ready to be tasted by dancing bees.
My advice to you: if you want to wear real three-dimensional perfume, you'll just have to accept the dark side of the human psyche as well as animals' and people's strange attraction towards the scent of alluring decay emanating from flowers. On the other hand, you could always wear home fragrance to clear the air.
At this point, one can recognizes a giant quote from Black Orchid by Tom Ford with its wafts of slightly putrid-smelling flower ensconced deep in the jungle, waiting for its prey. Whatever they called the "black truffle" note back then is here too. A second ancestor of Heat which is also apparent, but more from the start, is Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf. The candied top notes and the berry fruit facet are really a recall of that scent.
Personally, I am still waiting for the celeb scent with a headspace capture of the aroma of the celebrity's belly-button (there was a project "recording" the scents of beautiful women and Thierry Mugler did a headspace capture of the scent of the belly-button of a virgin, facts.) Furthermore, now that we know that you can create fragrance thanks to sensors which capture your state of mind, I think fragrance developers ought to do a graph of a celeb's emotions over several months and come up with a perfume composed around a chart.
If you are not afraid of smelling a bit ripe and fruity-carnal, this is a one to consider. Obviously, it is also a more affordable version of Black Orchid.
In spite of the borrowings I mentioned, Heat is well-blended on its own and smells really good, offering a sillage with an updated, young chypré impression, but also a powdery, oriental impression of vanilla on the skin. The longer drydown turns Heat into a powdery ambery retro boudoir-like scent with an atmosphere of intimacy about it. One quality it has is that it is both pleasant to smell on skin and pleasant to smell as a waft, with some differing nuances. Sometimes perfumes force you to make a choice, but this is not the case.
Pictures: ©Kambouris/©Mazur
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